I decided last week to make French Onion Soup as it's been dreadfully cold and I just got some new oven safe bowls. In the past, I have used Mollie Katzen's Onion Soup recipe which has always been pretty good, but not fantastic. Good on the first round but upon reheating you have a bunch of fried onions in a watery soy sauce broth. I love Mollie, don't get me wrong, but her recipes need a little rounding out with some animal fat every now and then. So, I decided to try Ms. Child's version, which included french vermouth AND fine brandy. Well well well.
Of course, I am still a twenty something and cannot keep liquor in the house, especially not FINE brandy, so this warranted a trip to the liquor store. I emerged after procuring a tiny little bottle of E&J (fine enough for me!) and an economy sized bottle of Martini and Rossi. I was also making a curried chicken salad so I got a tiny bottle of chardonnay as well. Pete's Liquor store on Easton is fantastic for cooking alcohols in any size to fit any budget.
It was a fine soup indeed. I was pleased as punch when it emerged bubbling and steamy from the oven, despite the fact that my bread had disintegrated partially into the soup. Oh Julia, she warned us about that too, "Be sure you have a homemade type of bread with body here because flimsy loaves [like Stop and Shop 100% Whole Wheat] will disintegrate into a slimy mass[.]" (pg 19). But it certainly was delicious.
And we both enjoyed it.
The biggest learning experience, however, was through the salad. Usually I think of myself as a reasonably good vinaigrette maker (I thought that adding mustard to one's balsamic mix was the height of cleverness and sophistication) but Julia had more to teach me on that front. I thought it might be fun to make a lemon and oil dressing for my arugula salad with bleu cheese and currants so I checked out what she had to say about it. Turns out all my vinaigrettes in the past had been all off. No wonder people's eyes watered so much when I made them salads; they certainly weren't tears of joy. The vinegar-oil ratio was TOTALLY WRONG. Here's what she had to say about proportions:
"Vinaigrettes, as dressings for green salads are usually called, are made with all vinegar, or all lemon juice, or a little of both. Although standard proportions appear to be 1 part vinegar or lemon to 3 of oil, I think this makes far too acid a mixture, especially when you are serving wine with the meal. I opt for the dry martini proportions, 1 to 5; but you must judge this yourself for each salad. You can always toss in a little more lemon or vinegar if needed, but it's hard to remove or disguise an excess." (page 350).
I was fascinated enough to try it out. Here's the recipe for any budding vinaigrette fans out there!
Julia's Oil and Lemon Dressing (the Master Recipe!)
For about 2/3 cup, enough for 6 to 8 servings
2 strips of fresh lemon peel (1 by 2.5 inches each) [I just used zest]
1/4 tsp salt, plus more, if needed
1 Tbs Dijon-type prepared mustard
1 to 2 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup fine fresh oil [olive was delicious]
Freshly ground pepper
Special Equipment Suggested: A small mortar and pestle, or a heavy bowl and wooden spoon; a small portable beater or wire whisk.
Mince the lemon peel very finely with the salt, scrape it into the mortar or bowl, and mash into a fine paste with the pestle or the spoon.
Beat in the mustard and 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice; when thoroughly blended, start beating in the oil by droplets to make a homogeneous sauce - easier when done with a small electric mixer. Beat in droplets more lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
Emulsion Note: Slow additions or oil and constant beating make the emulsion here, and if the sauce doesn't "take" - too bad - just beat it well before using. Or whisk in a spoonful of raw egg white, heavy cream, or condensed milk, which should bring it together. For security, these could be added at the beginning, with the mustard. (Pages 350-351, The Way to Cook)
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